Perspectives
Visit a sake brewery in Japan, and you may see the tōji cup the air of the kōji room in their palm, reading temperature and humidity through the skin. “Brewing with the five senses” is a beautiful phrase. But when the person who possesses those senses is nearing their seventies, with no successor in sight, a reality emerges that beauty alone cannot resolve. As of 2026, Japan has roughly 1,100 sake breweries, representing less than half the number seen at the industry’s peak in the 1970s. Many closures are driven by a lack of successors and labor shortages. When a brewery shuts its doors, the rules of thumb stored in the tōji’s mind, such as “At this air temperature, stir the moromi 30 minutes earlier” or “When the aroma of the kōji changes like this, lower the temperature by 0.5°C,” are often lost without ever being passed on. Now, quietly but unmistakably, a movement is spreading to preserve that “vanishing intuition” as data and hand it to the next generation.
Read more →