A Sake Named by a Poet｜Tamba’s “Kotsuzumi,” the First Step into Japanese Sake

Series: “The Sake Staircase” Episode 1｜Step 1: Japanese Sake ①

A Sake Named by a Poet｜Tamba’s “Kotsuzumi,” the First Step into Japanese Sake

Series: “The Sake Staircase” Episode 1｜Step 1: Japanese Sake ①

For many in Bangkok, the first encounter with this brewery begins not with sake, but with a distinctive bottle. Large Nanko plums rest quietly at the bottom of a glass vessel modeled after Greco-Roman amphorae. This is Kotsuzumi’s “Plum Tonic Baishin,” a plum liqueur from Tamba.

Yet behind this distinctive vessel lies a heritage spanning over 170 years. Its survival through the centuries, however, was not the result of calculated business strategies. Instead, it was salvaged by a friendship born from letters exchanged with a single haiku poet.

In our prologue, we envisioned the world of Japanese spirits as a staircase of five distinct steps. The first step brings us to sake｜a refined brew born of polished rice and patience. It is from this historic brewery in Tamba that we begin our ascent.

Nishiyama Shuzojo was founded in 1849 at the end of the Edo period in Ichijima, Tamba City, Hyogo Prefecture, a place known for producing Tamba tōji. The area is blessed with soft underground water from the Takeda River and a large difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures, conditions suited to brewing delicate ginjo sake. Tamba City is a separate municipality from neighboring Tamba-Sasayama City.

Yet, longevity offers no immunity to the tides of time. As the Meiji era gave way to the Taisho period, the family business faltered, leaving the brewery on the brink of obscurity.

Amidst this existential crisis, the third-generation owner found solace not in ledger books, but in the minimalist beauty of haiku. Deeply moved by the verses of Masaoka Shiki, he eventually became a direct disciple of Takahama Kyoshi, a titan of modern haiku. The vast distance between Tokyo and the rural valleys of Tamba dissolved through letters carrying 17-syllable poems. As the dialogue between master and disciple deepened, the remote brewery transformed into a vibrant cultural salon, drawing artists and thinkers into its fold.

In 1915, Kyoshi bestowed a name upon the brewery’s sake, accompanied by a dedicated verse: “Here is fine sake; let it be named Kotsuzumi.” It was not a grand corporate restructuring, but the profound weight of a poet’s words that gave the brewery a new soul. Inspired, the owner adopted the literary pseudonym Hakuun (White Cloud).

This artistic lineage ripples through every facet of the brewery, extending even to the invisible elements of creation. The Association No. 10 yeast｜which breathes life into expressions like “Rojoh-Hana-Ari”｜was isolated by Ogawa Chikara, the son of the master Nihonga (Japanese-style) painter Ogawa Usen. Rare is the brewery where the threads of artistic connection are woven so deeply into the very microbiology of the brew.

Sake yielded by this yeast unfolds with aromas of crisp apple, fresh pear, and white peach, balanced by a whispering acidity. Coupled with the exceptionally soft water of the Takeda River, the result is a texture of remarkable fluidity and grace. The flagship sake, “Rojoh-Hana-Ari”｜named after a Zen phrase meaning “a flower blooms by the wayside”｜is presented in a bottle designed by the contemporary artist Watanuki Kosuke. Name, yeast, and aesthetic form｜all are seamlessly unified by art.

This approach to making drinks has quietly been recognised in Japan and abroad. The plum liqueur mentioned earlier, Plum Tonic Baishin, combines sake and brandy through an unusual two-stage process. It received a Gold Award on its first entry at Kura Master 2025 in Paris, where sommeliers and others judged the entries blind.

Whether your journey begins with the amber warmth of the plum liqueur or the pristine clarity of their Junmai Daiginjo, the path converges at the same rustic storehouse. Kotsuzumi serves as a perfect introduction to the sake category because it demystifies the craft without stripping away its romance. If you encountered Kotsuzumi at KANPAI THAILAND 2026, we hope you will recall that behind the bottle are Tamba’s water and a name given by a haiku poet.

The narrative of Kotsuzumi unfolds across three distinct spaces in Bangkok. At Salon du Japonisant, one can trace the brewery’s history at a contemplative pace. Nadaya Saketen, a traditional sake boutique, offers a curated selection backed by profound expertise. Finally, KOUJI ALCHEMIST by Salon du Japonisant invites you to re-examine the alchemy of Baishin｜where plum, sake, and brandy meet｜through the fascinating lens of koji fermentation. One legacy, viewed through three evocative perspectives.

Koji’s Note

What endlessly fascinates me about this brewery is that its narrative captured me long before the liquid touched my palate. In an era consumed by hyper-efficiency, the truth that a centuries-old heritage was preserved not by a corporate masterstroke, but by the quiet power of a single haiku, feels beautifully subversive. For those in Bangkok, perhaps the journey begins with a glimpse of a Nanko plum resting in glass｜a gentle first step on the elegant staircase toward the liquid poetry of Tamba.

KANPAI THAILAND 2026 has concluded. In the next chapter, our journey up the first step of the Japanese sake staircase continues.

This article explores the brewing heritage and history of Nishiyama Shuzo and its Kotsuzumi brand, and is intended solely to share cultural and educational context. It does not aim to promote or encourage the consumption or purchase of alcohol. The list of participating producers and products at KANPAI THAILAND 2026 was subject to change before the event. For those aged 20 and over; please drink responsibly.

บทความนี้นำเสนอเรื่องราวเกี่ยวกับปรัชญาการผลิตและมรดกทางวัฒนธรรมของโรงสาเก Nishiyama Shuzo และแบรนด์ Kotsuzumi จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อแบ่งปันบริบททางวัฒนธรรมและความรู้เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาการบริโภคหรือการซื้อเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ ก่อนวันงาน รายชื่อผู้ผลิตและผลิตภัณฑ์ที่ร่วมงาน KANPAI THAILAND 2026 ยังอาจเปลี่ยนแปลงได้ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างมีความรับผิดชอบ

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Related Product(s)

KOTSUZUMI Plumtonic Baishin / KOTSUZUMI Rojoh-Hana-Ari Aoi / KOTSUZUMI Rojoh-Hana-Ari Sazanka / KOTSUZUMI Rojoh-Hana-Ari Tohka