A Prayer Named Wings: Toyama’s Haneya from the Brink of Bankruptcy to the World

From the Brink of Bankruptcy to the World: Toyama’s Haneya

Fumigiku Shuzo was founded in Toyama City in 1916. After a long decline in sake consumption, the brewery found itself on the brink of bankruptcy. Yet, out of these quiet struggles emerged “Haneya”｜a brand that would redefine the brewery’s destiny. Today, its Junmai Daiginjo “Tsubasa” has found recognition on the world stage. What changed the brewery?

“Every Bottle, Crafted as Daiginjo”

The turning point arrived with Keiki Hane, the brewery owner and master brewer, who believed that meaningful transformation begins on the brewery floor. He instituted a singular, defiant philosophy: every bottle produced, regardless of its classification, would receive the exact care and labor reserved for the finest Daiginjo.

In traditional brewing, these demanding techniques｜such as measuring rice water-absorption down to the precise second, and cultivating koji in small, meticulous box koji or lid koji containers｜are strictly reserved for competition entries or rare editions. To apply them to standard sake was financially reckless, defying conventional notions of efficiency. Yet, Hane chose devotion over profitability.

Honoring Tradition, Redefining Labor

Veteran master brewers and brewery workers resisted fiercely: “We cannot work so inefficiently.” Hane did not give up. He entered the brewery himself, learned by watching and imitating their movements, and kept trying to persuade them.

Eventually, he undertook every stage of production himself. To sustain this rigorous standard throughout the seasons, he broke away from the traditional winter-only brewing schedule, transitioning to shiki jozo (year-round brewing). From this quiet persistence, “Haneya”｜bearing his family name｜was born.

A Global Resonance

Recognition followed naturally, transcending borders. Haneya garnered the Platinum Award at France’s Kura Master in 2022 alongside multiple accolades at the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in the UK. Its refined character also led to its selection for Japan Airlines’ domestic First Class and All Nippon Airways’ international Business Class.

The flagship Junmai Daiginjo, “Tsubasa,” is crafted from Toyama’s regional Gohyakumangoku sake rice, polished to 50%. During the pressing stage, the brewery employs the nakagumi method, capturing only the purest middle-run liquid. Its profile remains deliberately understated｜subtle notes of green apple and fresh botanicals. Instead of seeking attention through boldness, it offers a crystalline clarity designed to complement a meal.

An Invitation to Lightness

The name “Tsubasa,” meaning wings, carries a quiet aspiration. Much like the effortless ascent of a bird into the open sky, this sake is crafted to offer a moment of lightness｜a brief release from the weight of the everyday.

From the brink of bankruptcy to a wider world, the story of Haneya’s “Tsubasa” shows how much determination can go into one sake. This bottle from a small Toyama brewery is also gradually finding its place in Bangkok’s dining scene. (Mr. Bacchus)

This article is intended solely to explore the brewing philosophy and cultural heritage of Fumigiku Shuzo (the producer of the Haneya brand) and does not aim to promote or encourage the consumption of alcohol. / บทความนี้จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อนำเสนอข้อมูลเกี่ยวกับปรัชญาการผลิตและมรดกทางวัฒนธรรมของโรงสาเก Fumigiku Shuzo (ผู้ผลิตแบรนด์ Haneya) เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างรับผิดชอบ

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