From the “Awamori Fungus” to the “Ryukyu Fungus”: A New Name for Black Koji and New Directions for Awamori Distilleries

In 2014, the scientific name of a fungus essential to making awamori underwent a subtle yet significant shift.

That fungus is black koji. As a microscopic engine of transformation, it converts the starch in rice into sugar and plays a vital role in awamori fermentation. For many years, its scientific designation was considered to be Aspergillus awamori—a name, as it suggests, directly intertwined with Okinawa’s historic spirit itself.

However, advances in genetic research led scientists to reclassify the organism as Aspergillus luchuensis, an update officially announced by Japan’s National Institute of Technology and Evaluation (NITE) in 2014. Luchuensis translates to “of the Ryukyus.” It refers back to an earlier scientific identifier given to a specimen collected in Okinawa in 1901.

Scientific nomenclature follows the principle that the earliest properly established name takes precedence. Consequently, the fungus transitioned from bearing a title associated with “awamori” to one bound to “the Ryukyus.” The organism itself, of course, remained unchanged; what shifted was simply the lens through which it is named.

A Changing Market for Awamori

Meanwhile, the market environment surrounding awamori has been contracting.

According to the Okinawa Prefectural Awamori Distillers Association, total awamori shipments stood at 11,733 kiloliters in 2025—a 5.7% decline from the previous year and roughly three-quarters of 2019 levels. The association notes shifting consumer preferences and lower alcohol consumption among younger demographics as contributing factors.

Against this backdrop, a number of distilleries have begun crafting gin and rum, applying generations of expertise in fermentation and distillation to new expressions. Yet this raises a thoughtful question: does expanding into gin mean turning away from heritage?

Gin Made by Awamori Distilleries

In 2018, Mizuho Shuzo introduced “ORI-GiN 1848,” crafted with ten botanicals including Okinawan shell ginger. Masahiro Shuzo has been distilling “Masahiro Okinawa Gin” since 2017, incorporating indigenous ingredients such as shikuwasa citrus, guava leaves, and bitter melon.

These aromatic herbs, fruits, and native botanicals impart aromas and flavors distinctive to the spirit’s origin.

Both creations remain rooted in the foundation of awamori. Botanicals are infused into a base spirit of awamori, which is then re-distilled to produce gin. While the label reads “gin,” the craft begins with awamori forged by black koji.

When the American publication Wine Enthusiast highlighted this movement in 2024, these spirits had already been quietly maturing in the market for years. Rather than a sudden trend, this represents a deliberate, multi-year evolution by Okinawan distillers.

A Shift in Taxonomy, An Expansion of Craft

There is no direct cause-and-effect link between the renaming of black koji and a distillery’s decision to craft gin. The taxonomical adjustment belonged to scientific research, whereas gin production represents a business decision made by individual producers.

Still, placing these two movements side by side reveals a resonant parallel. The microbe’s name expanded from “awamori” to the broader historical realm of “the Ryukyus.” Simultaneously, distillers have drawn upon their awamori heritage to explore gin, rum, and beyond.

Historically, black koji traveled from Okinawa across to Kyushu, where it became central to shochu production. Its identity has never been confined to a single tradition. In the same manner, these new endeavors by Okinawan distilleries mark not an abandonment of heritage, but a natural evolution of how tradition endures.

Preserving culture does not require repeating the past unchanged. Black koji, the wisdom of fermentation and distillation, and Okinawa’s unique geography remain the true core worth protecting. Keeping those foundations intact while allowing their expressions to evolve ensures the culture remains alive for generations to come.

This article examines the taxonomic history of black koji mold and the production and cultural context of Okinawan awamori distilleries, for informational purposes only, and does not aim to promote or encourage the consumption of alcohol. / บทความนี้จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อพิจารณาประวัติทางอนุกรมวิธานของเชื้อราโคจิดำ รวมถึงบริบทด้านการผลิตและวัฒนธรรมของโรงกลั่นอาวาโมริแห่งโอกินาวา เพื่อเป็นข้อมูลความรู้เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างรับผิดชอบ

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