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JOKIGEN

Ishikawa, Kano Brewery

The well was named by a priest in the fifteenth century. The brewery has been drawing from it since 1819.
Kano Brewery stands in Kaga, Ishikawa, under Mount Hakusan. The water is called Hakusui — white water — after Rennyo, who is said to have found it. It is soft, and it is the reason the house has never moved.
For fourteen years, from 1998, Naohiko Noguchi brewed here. His yamahai — the slow, additive-free method of building a starter — is studied across the industry.
In 2012 he left to open his own institute in Komatsu. He did not stop brewing, and Kano did not stop either.
The present toji joined in 1999 and took the role in 2011. He learned the method here, from the man who made it famous here.
Kiss of Fire, the junmai daiginjo, was selected for the Nobel Prize Nightcap Party.
The well is still the same well.