How Oita’s Nakano Shuzo Embraced the Unpolished Path
There is a long-held belief in the world of sake: “The more you polish the rice, the better the sake.” For generations, sake crafted from rice whose outer layers have been extensively milled away has been regarded as the pinnacle of premium quality, prized for its clean, ethereal flavor profile.
Yet, there is a sake that quietly challenges this assumption. It is “Chiebijin Junmai-shu,” brewed by Nakano Shuzo, a venerable house founded in 1874 in Kitsuki City, Oita Prefecture. This particular junmai sake, crafted with rice that is intentionally left unpolished to an excessive degree—embracing a more honest, unadorned approach—continues to capture the imagination of the international community.
A Singular Distinction Among 1,738 Entries
This year, the International Wine Challenge (IWC)—one of the world’s most rigorous and respected beverage competitions—brought this quiet philosophy into sharp focus.
Out of 1,738 sake entries submitted from across the globe, only 59 were deemed worthy of a “Trophy,” the highest accolade within each category. Chiebijin secured the Trophy in the highly competitive junmai-shu division. Building upon the momentum of its Silver award in 2025, this highest honor marks a profound evolution for the brewery.
Junmai-shu is a pure expression of the craft, made solely from rice, rice koji, and water, without any added brewing alcohol. It is sake in its most transparent, elemental form. The reality that Chiebijin was chosen for the top prize underscores how deeply its understated brewing philosophy resonated with the international panel.
When Texture Eclipsed Fragrance
This milestone, however, is part of a broader shift that began a few years ago. In 2018, at Kura Master—a prominent sake competition held in Paris—Chiebijin’s junmai-shu claimed the President’s Prize, the highest distinction of the entire event, out of more than 650 entries.
The judging was conducted entirely blind by French sommeliers and chefs, with all brand identities concealed. Amid a lineup of elegant, highly polished daiginjo sakes, it was this thoughtfully unpolished junmai-shu that rose to the absolute apex. A historic first for the competition, it gently destabilized the long-held hierarchy of sake styles.
The conventional wisdom that perfection is found only through subtraction was quietly overturned. Chiebijin proved that true character lies not in the superficial flamboyance of over-milling, but in preserving the innate umami and soul of the rice itself.
The Living Heritage of Kitsuki
This exceptional liquid is produced by the sole remaining sake brewery in the historic castle town of Kitsuki. The brand name itself is a tribute to Chie, the wife of the brewery’s founder.
The modern turning point for the house arrived with its sixth-generation head, Atsushi Nakano. In a definitive move, he transitioned from the traditional toji system—where brewing is outsourced to a visiting master—and assumed personal responsibility for production. To craft the sake, the brewery draws soft water known as “Goryosui” from more than 200 meters underground, and maintains a unique tradition of playing classical music within the cellar during fermentation to soothe the living yeast.
This dedicated philosophy is immediately apparent in the glass. Rather than prioritizing the expressive top notes that rise immediately from the glass, Chiebijin focuses on the subtle, expansive aroma that unfolds upon the palate. It is not a sake designed to dominate the conversation with intense fragrance; instead, it is conceptualized as an elegant companion to a meal. Uniquely versatile, it is structured to pair beautifully not only with traditional Japanese cuisine, but also with Western and contemporary Chinese dishes.
A Natural Affinity with Bangkok’s Palate
This thoughtful approach to flavor carries a particular resonance for a city like Bangkok.
Bangkok’s gastronomic landscape is celebrated for its intricate layers, where Thai heritage, Japanese precision, and global culinary traditions seamlessly interlace. Because Chiebijin does not demand attention through overwhelming aromas, it adapts effortlessly to a diverse array of culinary pairings. In this sense, its character naturally mirrors the spirit of Bangkok—a city defined by its ability to embrace different cultures and harmonize complex flavors.
The deliberate choice not to over-polish the rice has yielded a global legacy. The story of Chiebijin quietly reminds us of the profound beauty that emerges when we choose to honor substance over convention. (Mr. Bacchus)
This article is intended solely to explore the brewing philosophy and cultural heritage of Nakano Brewery (Nakano Shuzo) and the Chiebijin brand, and does not aim to promote or encourage the consumption of alcohol. / บทความนี้จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อนำเสนอข้อมูลเกี่ยวกับปรัชญาการผลิตและมรดกทางวัฒนธรรมของโรงสาเก Nakano Shuzo และแบรนด์ Chiebijin เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างรับผิดชอบ