The Sake That Redefined Evaluation in Paris
In 2017, the inaugural Kura Master sake competition in Paris culminated in the announcement of its highest honor: the President’s Prize. A panel of leading French sommeliers awarded the title to Shichida Junmai Ginjo Omachi 50, crafted by Tenzan Sake Brewery in Saga Prefecture.
The deciding factor was its remarkable affinity with French cuisine. This moment marked a subtle but profound shift, introducing a new criterion to the global sake discourse: a structural integrity robust enough to complement complex dishes. The winner was not a highly polished daiginjo relying on extravagant aromatics, nor a standard brew known merely for a smooth mouthfeel. Instead, it was a sake defined by the deep umami of Omachi rice and a precise acidity capable of cutting through rich meats that captured the highest accolade.
The Duality of a Heritage Grain
The character of Shichida Omachi 50 is rooted inextricably in its grain. Cultivated in Okayama Prefecture, Omachi is a heritage variety untouched by modern crossbreeding, often revered as the ancestor of contemporary sake rice. Its lineage stands apart from refined modern hybrids like Yamada Nishiki. Featuring a large, soft starchy core (shinpaku), the grain allows koji mold to penetrate deeply, generating the abundant amino acids that form a rich umami foundation. This profound savory depth anchors its compatibility with hearty meat pairings.
Yet, Omachi also carries a distinct botanical signature. Cooling, herbaceous notes reminiscent of wild mint and green bamboo intertwine with the subtle sweetness of ripe pineapple and melon. This duality—a quiet coexistence of untamed earthiness and refined elegance—spoke directly to the French sommeliers as a complexity inherently suited for gastronomy.
The Precision of Medium-Hard Water
The brewery draws its water from the subterranean currents of the Tenzan mountain range—part of the Gion River system that connects to the celebrated Kiyomizu Falls. This medium-hard water, naturally rich in calcium and magnesium, vigorously supports the fermentation process.
The result is a well-defined acidity that tightens the inherent sweetness and umami of the Omachi grain. This water source is precisely what grants the sake its ability to cleanse the palate after rich, fatty dishes. Balancing the bold savory notes is a clean, decisive finish; this precise interplay forms the very structure capable of standing alongside complex French sauces.
A Philosophy Over Formal Classification
With a milling ratio of 50%, the sake legally qualifies for the premium “junmai daiginjo” designation. Nevertheless, it is intentionally bottled as a “junmai ginjo.”
The decision rests in the expectations tied to formal categories. The term “daiginjo” traditionally evokes a delicate, highly aromatic, and fruit-forward profile. Shichida Omachi 50, however, is crafted with a different intention. It is fundamentally a sake for the dining table, carrying a robust umami that engages directly with food. By prioritizing a dialogue with cuisine over sheer aromatics, the brewery embodies its philosophy in the very label it chooses.
A similar approach is observed in other forward-thinking labels, such as KID Muryozan, which also opts for the junmai ginjo classification despite meeting daiginjo specifications. This reflects a shared ethos among contemporary brewers: designing a profile based on culinary intent rather than strict adherence to traditional hierarchy.
A Lineage Rooted in the Waterwheel
This deliberate approach to craftsmanship is deeply intertwined with the brewery’s origins. The foundation of Tenzan Sake Brewery dates back to 1861, originally operating as a waterwheel-powered milling business. Utilizing Saga’s abundant water sources to polish rice and mill wheat for local farmers, the family eventually transitioned into sake brewing in 1875.
Their historical expertise as milling professionals informs their meticulous approach to ingredient handling today, from rice polishing to washing and soaking. The Shichida brand itself was introduced in 2001 by sixth-generation head Kensuke Shichida. Guided by the concept of sake suited to modern dining, he opted for an unfiltered, single-pasteurization method to present the raw ingredients as authentically as possible. Over six generations, a dedication to grain processing born at a local waterwheel has evolved into a sophisticated dialogue with global gastronomy.
A Question Answered Through Time
Following the 2017 President’s Prize, the sake has quietly continued to earn its place on the global stage, garnering accolades such as a Platinum Award at Kura Master 2018 and a Gold Medal at the 2024 International Wine Challenge. Yet, the true measure of its success lies not in the medals themselves, but in the consistency of its vision. The shift in perspective initiated in Paris nearly a decade ago continues to resonate, reaffirming that the profound structure of a carefully brewed sake is a universal language of the dining table. (Mr. Bacchus)
This article is intended solely to explore the brewing philosophy and cultural heritage of Tenzan Sake Brewery and the Shichida brand, and does not aim to promote or encourage the consumption of alcohol. / บทความนี้จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อนำเสนอข้อมูลเกี่ยวกับปรัชญาการผลิตและมรดกทางวัฒนธรรมของ Tenzan Sake Brewery และแบรนด์ Shichida เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างรับผิดชอบ
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