Toyonaga Shuzo’s “Mugishiru” from Kuma Wins Double Awards in France and Japan
The contemporary landscape of barley shochu is largely defined by a pursuit of the “clean and crisp.” A light, approachable profile where complexities are filtered away has come to be seen as the modern ideal.
Yet, there exists a barley shochu that consciously navigates against this current. It is “Mugishiru,” crafted by Toyonaga Shuzo, a distillery founded in 1894 along the pristine headwaters of Kuma, Kumamoto Prefecture. As its name suggests—evoking the raw essence of “barley juice”—it generously captures the deep, roasted aroma of the grain and a full-bodied umami within a single, elegant bottle.
Recognized in the Same Year by Two Competitions in France and Japan
In 2026, this distinctive character achieved rare, simultaneous acclaim from two spirits competitions with entirely different cultural perspectives.
One was “Kura Master” in Paris, France. Judged by prominent French culinary professionals, including top sommeliers, the competition awarded Mugishiru both the prestigious Jury Prize and the Platinum Award in the barley shochu category.
The other was Japan’s Tokyo Whisky & Spirits Competition (TWSC), evaluated by rigorous experts in global spirits. Mugishiru, which is offered in both a classic 25% ABV expression and a winter-exclusive, undiluted genshu at 44% ABV, made a defining impression: the genshu received the Supreme Gold Award, while the 25% expression secured Gold.
French culinary authorities and Japanese spirits experts operate on vastly different criteria. This dual recognition from such contrasting worldviews underscores the singular, uncompromising identity of Mugishiru.
Why Go Against the Trend?
The distinct profile of Mugishiru is shaped by three intentional choices—acts of quiet defiance against conventional trends.
The first lies in the grain. Instead of the ubiquitous two-row barley, the brewery utilizes 100% domestically grown naked barley. This choice yields a deep, roasted aroma reminiscent of the earth and the outer husk of the grain.
The second is the distillation process. While many producers favor vacuum distillation for a lighter finish, Mugishiru embraces atmospheric distillation. By distilling at higher temperatures, it powerfully coaxes out the inherent umami and rich aromatics of the barley.
The third is filtration. Standard practices dictate the removal of elements that might cause slight variances in flavor. Mugishiru, however, is deliberately left unfiltered. Components often deemed “unnecessary” are preserved as vital fragments of the barley’s true character. It is an art not of subtraction, but of preservation.
A Brewery of More Than 130 Years, Starting from the Soil
Supporting this uncompromising approach is the philosophy of a house that has endured for over 130 years near the headwaters of the Kuma River.
In 1986, as the wider industry prioritized industrial efficiency, fourth-generation distiller Shiro Toyonaga made a pivotal shift toward organic cultivation. Believing that “exceptional shochu begins with the cultivation of the soil,” he engaged local contract farmers alongside the brewery’s own fields, ultimately securing organic certification in 2001. Rather than chasing fleeting market trends, the brewery focuses on the earth beneath its feet—an enduring devotion that forms the foundation of Mugishiru’s unwavering flavor.
To the Dining Tables of Bangkok
With its robust umami and roasted aroma, Mugishiru holds its own beautifully, complementing the bold, aromatic layers of Thai cuisine—from the heat of chili to the depth of fish sauce and the brightness of lime.
In an era where “clean and crisp” is frequently presented as the only answer, this bottle offers an alternative: a deliberate preservation of the grain’s untamed character. Its individuality, verified by the highest standards of Paris and Tokyo, offers discerning palates in Bangkok a profound entry point into the rich, authentic heritage of Japanese shochu. (Mr. Bacchus)
This article is intended solely to explore the distillation philosophy and cultural heritage of Toyonaga Distillery (the producer of Mugishiru) and does not aim to promote or encourage the consumption of alcohol. / บทความนี้จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อนำเสนอข้อมูลเกี่ยวกับปรัชญาการกลั่นและมรดกทางวัฒนธรรมของโรงกลั่น Toyonaga (ผู้ผลิต Mugishiru) เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างรับผิดชอบ