Drink
L’Entêté and the history of absinthe at Combier
At Distillerie Combier in Saumur, the history of absinthe spans an old botanical tradition, a national ban and the revival of distillation. L’Entêté belongs to that later chapter.
Wormwood and the origins of absinthe
The word absinthe refers both to wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) and to the spirit associated with it. For the spirit, wormwood and other plants may be macerated in alcohol and then distilled. Wormwood also appears in historical medicinal and culinary traditions. Those uses provide no evidence of a therapeutic benefit from drinking absinthe.

In the late eighteenth century, the Dubied family and Henri-Louis Pernod helped establish commercial absinthe production in Couvet, Switzerland. In 1805 Pernod opened his own distillery in Pontarlier, across the border in France.
From the 1915 ban to the revival at Combier
Combier’s history records absinthe production in 1899. France prohibited its manufacture, sale and circulation in 1915. In 2004, Combier’s master distiller Franck Choisne began working to revive production.
A decree issued in 2010 amended the criteria used to define drinks similar to absinthe. The 1915 law itself was repealed in May 2011. Combier describes Choisne as having worked to change the restrictions that affected the traditional use of fennel.
The 2012 recipe
Choisne created L’Entêté in 2012, drawing on the distillery’s historical recipes. The name means “the stubborn one” in French and refers to his persistence. Combier lists nine ingredients, including fennel and wormwood, and an alcohol content of 62% by volume.
The producer describes a pale green colour, fennel and anise on the nose, and floral notes from the wormwood.
Sources: Combier’s history, 2010 decree, 1915 law and repeal.
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