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Perspectives

Leon Heitzmann

Preserving a Legacy in Alsace

One of the Village’s Oldest Winegrowing Families In Alsace, in northeastern France near the German border, the Vosges Mountains block rain clouds from the west, creating one of the driest and sunniest climates in the country. In the small village of Ammerschwihr, the Heitzmann family has been quietly growing grapes since 1804. The vineyard has been passed down through seven generations, and today the estate is guided by Laurence Heitzmann. Across roughly 12 hectares, the family cultivates nine grape varieties, including Riesling and Gewürztraminer. They also hold precious parcels in two of Alsace’s 51 Grand Crus: Kaefferkopf and Schlossberg. With only 51 Grand Cru sites in all of Alsace, it is a rare distinction for a family-run domaine to steward land in two of them.

Perspectives

Beyond the Numbers

A Quiet Global Expansion Recent figures from the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association reveal that in 2025, Japanese sake found its way to 81 countries and regions. With an export value nearing ¥45.9 billion—nearly doubling over the past five years—the global resonance of this traditional craft continues to deepen. Yet, the official count of 81 countries only tells part of the story, as it solely reflects formal customs data. The true footprint of sake extends much further. For instance, Katokichibee Shoten, a venerable brewery in Sabae City, Fukui Prefecture, shares its celebrated “Born” label with 108 countries. Through diplomatic channels and quiet intermediary trade, sake is bridging cultures far beyond what official statistics capture.

From Wine to Sake

Sake Contains No Tannins

Harmony with French Cuisine—and Its Limitations People often say that sake pairs well with French cuisine. Delicate umami, gentle acidity, and the smooth texture derived from rice—those qualities certainly make it so. But when sake is matched against the true mainstream of French cooking, it reveals a structural contrast. It possesses no tannins. Wine contains tannins, the bitter, astringent compounds extracted from grape skins and barrels. These compounds cut through fat and serve as the “backbone” that brings harmony to complex sauces. Because sake naturally lacks this backbone, pairings with French dishes rich in butter or cream can sometimes feel blurred or unfocused. Yamanashi Meijo, a brewery in Hakushu, Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture, confronted this culinary challenge. Founded in 1750, this brewery has dedicated over 270 years to the craft of sake. Their chosen approach was the integration of cherry wood barrels.

Perspectives

Reflections on the Spring Price Revisions

Understanding the True Value of Sake April 2026: A Wave of Price Revisions In April 2026, a major wave of price revisions swept through Japan’s alcoholic beverage industry. The major manufacturers alone raised prices on hundreds of items, and across the food sector as a whole, more than 2,500 products were subject to price increases that […]

Perspectives

Japan’s “Golden Generation” of Sake

The Evolution of Brewers Reflected in CRAFT SAKE WEEK’s 10th Anniversary 130 Breweries Convene in Roppongi From April 17 to 29, 2026, CRAFT SAKE WEEK 2026 will be held at Roppongi Hills Arena in Tokyo. Spearheaded by Hidetoshi Nakata, the event marks its 10th anniversary this year. Spanning a record 13 days, it will feature an […]

Perspectives

Serving Umeshu from a Glass Amphora

A Long-Established Tamba Brewery’s Approach to Experience An Inspiration Rooted in Italian Antiquity Nestled within the quiet, mountainous landscape of Tamba City, Hyogo Prefecture, Nishiyama Shuzo has been brewing sake since 1849. While it is not unusual for a sake brewery to produce umeshu, the product this brewery released in 2006 departed significantly from conventional paradigms […]

Perspectives

In Hiroshima, the Birthplace of Ginjo

Judges from Around the World Evaluate Sake As the IWC SAKE category marks its 20th anniversary, “Good sake cannot be made with soft water.” In the Meiji era, this was considered common sense. Hard water, like the kind found in Nada, was thought to be ideal for brewing, while regions with soft water, such as […]

Perspectives

Forging a New Legacy

AKABU Junmai, the Visionary Masterpiece of a 22-Year-Old Toji March 11, 2011. Akabu Shuzo, a historic brewery in Otsuchi, Kamihei District, Iwate Prefecture, lost everything to the devastating tsunami of the Great East Japan Earthquake. In an instant, the brewery, its cherished tools, and the very soil where sake had been crafted for 115 years […]

Perspectives

The Sake Brewery “2026 Problem”

Navigating New Realities Converging Challenges Japan’s roughly 1,400 remaining sake breweries are currently facing three simultaneous structural challenges: a rapidly shrinking domestic market, stubbornly high rice prices, and the aging of traditional toji(master brewers) alongside a lack of successors. This “2026 problem” is accelerating a profound transformation across the industry. Moving Beyond Volume Under this strain, breweries are […]

Perspectives

Sixteen Months Post-UNESCO

The Evolving Landscape of Japanese Sake and Bangkok’s Gastronomy The Milestone of December 2024 At a UNESCO intergovernmental committee meeting held in Asunción, Paraguay, “traditional Japanese sake brewing using koji mold” was officially registered as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. It marked the first time that knowledge and techniques passed down for generations by toji (master brewers) and kurabito(brewery workers) were formally […]

Perspectives

Natural Wine is Quietly Reshaping Asia’s Culinary Landscape

A Snapshot of Tokyo and Bangkok A Global Gathering in Tokyo On May 10 and 11, 2026, RAW WINE Tokyo returns to the Tokyo Ryutsu Center. Founded by Isabelle Legeron, the first French woman to earn the prestigious title of Master of Wine, RAW WINE stands as the world’s premier natural wine fair. Touring cities such […]

Domaine Héritage du Pic Saint Loup

The Story of a Winery That Lost Its Name

Yet Reclaimed an 800-Year-Old Legacy A Name Preserved in 13th-Century Manuscripts In the Languedoc region of southern France, about 20 kilometers north of Montpellier, the 658-meter Pic Saint-Loup rises into view. At its foot, the Ravaille family has been growing grapes since at least the 13th century. They grazed sheep, made cheese, and worked the land. […]