The Resilience of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Old Vines
A Southern Rhône Legacy Since 1826 Châteauneuf-du-Pape stretches across the southern bank of the Rhône River in southern France. The Jaume family’s history of grape growing here began in 1826, when Mathieu Jaume first established vineyards on this land. For nearly two centuries, six generations of the family have continued cultivating these soils.
Today, the estate is guided by the sixth generation—Christophe, Sébastien, and Hélène—who oversee both management and day-to-day operations. Their approach gracefully combines traditional methods with contemporary viticultural knowledge. In 2009, they began converting to organic farming, earning Ecocert certification by 2012. By eliminating synthetic chemical pesticides and maintaining a healthy soil microbiome, they create naturally balanced conditions that allow the roots of their old vines to grow deeper into the earth.
The Natural Microclimate of Galets Roulés One of the defining features of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the large, rounded stones known as galets roulés that blanket the vineyards. Carried downstream by the Rhône River during the Ice Age, these stones are more than just part of the scenery—they function as a natural temperature-regulating system.
During the day, they absorb and store heat from the intense southern French sun all the way to their core, then gradually radiate that warmth back toward the vines at night. This day-night heat cycle helps the grapes achieve full maturity. Beneath these stones lies a layer of marine sediment formed during the Miocene epoch, roughly 23 million to 5.33 million years ago. The roots of the old vines reach down into these deep layers, drawing up essential minerals and complex soil-derived elements.
2021: The Test of a Late Frost In the spring of 2021, the southern Rhône was hit by a historic late frost. Young Grenache shoots were struck directly, and yields across the region fell by 20 to 45 percent. The summer was also relatively cool, which delayed ripening. For many producers, 2021 is remembered as an elegant but restrained vintage.
Yet, in the Jaume family’s old-vine parcels, those difficult conditions led to a different outcome. Vines aged between 50 and more than 100 years have root systems that penetrate deep into the ground, pushing through the galets roulés and sedimentary layers. Because they can access deep underground water reserves, they are naturally better equipped to withstand summer drought. Simultaneously, the natural crop reduction caused by the late frost concentrated the character of the remaining berries.
The composition chosen for this vintage was 45% Grenache, 45% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah. In a typical Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache often makes up 60 to 80 percent of the blend, so giving Mourvèdre an equal 45 percent share is a distinctive approach. Properly ripening late-maturing Mourvèdre requires the specific heat-retaining power of these old-vine parcels, making that ratio itself a reflection of the terroir’s unique strength.
A Reflection of Terroir in a Challenging Year Rather than relying on numerical scores or comparative accolades, the significance of this vintage lies in how the old vines responded to adversity. The resulting wine offers a profound expression of the vineyard’s resilience, capturing a depth of character that stands apart in a historically difficult year.
It is often in challenging years that the true nature of a terroir and the quiet dedication of the vigneron are most clearly revealed. The 2021 vintage, born from old vines that weathered the late frost, serves as a quiet testament to both the Jaume family’s nearly 200-year journey and the enduring strength of this extraordinary land. (Mr. Bacchus)
This article is intended solely to explore the winemaking artistry and terroir of Domaine Grand Veneur, and does not aim to promote or encourage the consumption of alcohol. / บทความนี้จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อนำเสนอข้อมูลเกี่ยวกับศิลปะการทำไวน์และแหล่งผลิตของ Domaine Grand Veneur เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างรับผิดชอบ