The Future of Japanese Sake, Guided by a Legendary Toji
In the world of Japanese sake, there is one Toji (master brewer) whose name evokes admiration and awe. That person is none other than Naohiko Noguchi. Born in Noto Town in Ishikawa Prefecture, he began his path as a sake brewer at the age of sixteen. For over seventy years, he has dedicated himself to crafting sake. From winning numerous Gold Prizes at the Annual Japan Sake Awards to leading the boom in ginjo-style sake, his achievements are countless. Because of these accomplishments, he is often called the “God of Sake Brewing.” It was precisely to preserve and continue his techniques and spirit—and to take Japanese sake culture to new heights—that the Noguchi Naohiko Research Institute was founded. Located in the naturally rich area of Komatsu City in Ishikawa Prefecture, this institute holds Mr. Noguchi’s passion at its core, making it truly a place where the future of Japanese sake is being created.
The Essence of Brewing: Passion and Innovation
The primary purpose of establishing the Noguchi Naohiko Research Institute is to ensure that Mr. Noguchi’s exceptional techniques and spirit, cultivated over many decades, are passed on to future generations. Born in 1932 in Noto Town, Ishikawa Prefecture, Mr. Noguchi entered the world of sake brewing at just sixteen years old. By the time he was twenty-eight, he had become an independent toji, known as one of the “Four Great Noto Toji.” Fueled by his unwavering desire to “brew delicious sake,” he introduced many famous labels to the market.
His name became widely recognized for his research and promotion of ginjo sake—a style known for its floral aroma and delicate flavor—and for reviving the traditional yamahai method, which had once been in danger of disappearing. Yamahai uses naturally occurring lactic acid bacteria to develop the fermentation starter, resulting in a rich, full-bodied sake with a clean finish. Reviving this method made a significant impact on the sake industry.
While honoring tradition, Mr. Noguchi also embraces innovation and adapts to modern times. He is open to using the latest technology and actively incorporates new ideas. He often says, “We must cherish what’s good from the past but always be open to new possibilities,” perfectly embodying the ideal form of sake brewing.
“Brewing sake means nurturing people,” Mr. Noguchi says. No matter how refined your skills, they cannot be passed on if there is no place to share them. Although Mr. Noguchi once retired in 2012, he returned to the brewing scene to fulfill his strong desire to pass on his knowledge to younger brewers. In November 2017, he founded the Noguchi Naohiko Research Institute in Kannonshita Town, Komatsu City. There, he set up a place to train many young toji and other brewery staff.
Experiencing the Soul of Sake with All Five Senses
The Noguchi Naohiko Research Institute has gained attention as a rare type of brewery that places its top priority on training the next generation. Mr. Noguchi himself teaches directly, and the young brewers learn every aspect of crafting high-quality sake through hands-on experience. From selecting the rice, washing it, and handling the water and yeast, to deciding the timing and managing the temperature during fermentation, they learn countless skills that require both delicate senses and years of practical experience.
One area where Mr. Noguchi’s commitment truly stands out is his emphasis on “handwork.” Even though modern equipment is introduced, final decisions about flavor rely on the refined senses and intuition—the “gut feeling”—that master brewers and their teams develop through long experience. Having won many awards, Mr. Noguchi’s “masterful intuition” is sometimes described as a divine skill. For the young people who visit the Research Institute, the chance to learn directly from him and absorb his techniques and spirit is priceless. This hands-on mentorship is the institute’s greatest strength.
The institute also plays an important role in the local community. Situated in Kanagaso Town, Komatsu City—surrounded by Ishikawa’s abundant nature—it works closely with nearby farmers, using locally grown rice. This “local production for local consumption” approach is a key philosophy. The brewery also welcomes visitors through tours and hands-on programs, inviting tourists to discover the culture and traditions of Japanese sake, as well as the harmony with the local natural environment. These activities not only bring the local community together but also boost the regional economy, turning sake brewing into a driving force for the area.
Sake from the Noguchi Naohiko Research Institute has already received high praise from various media outlets and critics. Building on Mr. Noguchi’s tradition of winning multiple Gold Prizes at the Annual Japan Sake Awards, the young brewers add fresh ideas and passion to help the sake evolve even further. Blending tradition and innovation, this brewery is always capable of producing surprising new creations.
If you want to discover the depth of Japanese sake or experience the passion of its brewers, consider visiting the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute. You can find information about tours and events on their official website, and you might even encounter a limited-edition sake available only on-site. This could be the perfect opportunity to deepen your appreciation for Japanese sake.
The institute’s true mission is not just to brew delicious sake. It also aims to pass on Mr. Noguchi’s extraordinary techniques and spirit to the next generation, and to share the richness of Japan’s sake culture and local attractions with the world. We encourage you to keep an eye on its progress. And if you have a chance, visit in person to feel that passion firsthand. The moment you sip their sake—brewed with such dedication—you will experience its full aroma and deep flavor, along with the soul of the artisans who created it. (Mr. Bacchus)