An All-Junmai Daiginjo Brewery’s Vision — TATENOKAWA Stream Red “Kyuryu”
Nestled in Sakata City, Yamagata Prefecture—a region blessed with the pristine waters and abundant rice harvests of the Shonai Plain—stands a brewery whose legacy traces back to 1832 (the 3rd year of the Tenpo era). This is Tatenokawa Sake Brewery.
The brewery captured the sake industry’s spotlight in 2010 with a bold, unprecedented pivot: dedicating its entire production exclusively to junmai daiginjo (the highest grade of premium sake). Relinquishing standard (futsushu) and honjozo varieties, Tatenokawa devoted itself entirely to the pinnacle of sake brewing. This unwavering commitment paved the way for remarkable achievements, including the groundbreaking 1% rice-polishing ratio of their Komei label, as well as being entrusted with brewing SAKE HUNDRED’s prestigious Byakko Betchu.
This feature shines a spotlight on their junmai daiginjo, “TATENOKAWA Stream Red ‘Kyuryu’,” a distinguished offering within the brewery’s “Extreme” series.
Dewa Sansan × A 33% Rice-Polishing Ratio: The Architectural Concept of Flavor
At the heart of Kyuryu is “Dewa Sansan,” a premium sake-brewing rice native to Yamagata Prefecture. Characterized by its large shinpaku (starchy core) and excellent water absorption, this varietal naturally yields a soft, pristine sake. Yet, if under-polished, this inherent softness can become a liability, causing the flavor profile to lose its crisp definition.
To counter this, Kyuryu employs a rigorous 33% polishing ratio. By meticulously milling away the outer layers—where proteins and lipids reside—the brewers preserve Dewa Sansan’s signature softness while cultivating a crystalline clarity and a robust structural backbone. In essence, this 33% metric is the optimal technical solution, precisely calibrated to unlock the rice’s ultimate potential.
A Worldview Inspired by the River’s Flow
Tatenokawa’s product lineup features an elegant naming convention metaphorically rooted in a river’s flow. It begins gently with Seiryu (Clear Stream) as an approachable entry point; progresses to Keiryu (Mountain Stream), celebrated for its masterful nakadori (middle-cut) pressing; surges into the highly refined Kyuryu (Rapid Stream); ascends to the ultra-polished Kyokugen (Extreme); and ultimately reaches the transcendent Komei (Radiance). True to their names, the further one journeys “upstream,” the more concentrated, artisanal, and refined the sake becomes.
Within this current, Kyuryu gracefully occupies the space between the everyday and the extraordinary. Despite utilizing the highly advanced technique of a 33% polishing ratio, it is not sequestered only for rare celebrations; rather, it is thoughtfully crafted to elevate everyday dining.
The Horizon for a Brewery Nearing Its Bicentennial
Through its exclusive dedication to junmai daiginjo, its historic achievement of a 1% polishing ratio, and a brand narrative flowing like a river, Tatenokawa Sake Brewery’s journey quietly yet powerfully demonstrates that profound tradition and bold innovation can harmoniously coexist in the world of sake.
Kyuryu serves as a perfect, inviting gateway into this profound brewing philosophy. (Mr.Bacchus)
Please note: This article is intended solely to explore the brewing techniques and cultural heritage of Tatenokawa Sake Brewery, and does not aim to promote or encourage the consumption of alcohol. / วิดีโอนี้จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อให้ข้อมูลและความรู้เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างรับผิดชอบ