Shichiken “Alain Ducasse Sparkling Sake”
Founded in 1750 (the 3rd year of the Kan’en era), Yamanashi Meijo’s “Shichiken,” located in Hakushu, Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture, has collaborated with Alain Ducasse, a highly respected figure in French cuisine. The result is “SHICHIKEN Selection Alain Ducasse Sparkling Sake.” Released in April 2021, this sparkling sake features a carefully layered production approach, drawing on three distinct techniques.
A Historic Brewery Meets French Culinary Tradition Shichiken’s brewery stands beside the pristine waters of the Ojiragawa River, whose soft water has been naturally filtered for thousands of years through the granite layers of Mount Kaikomagatake. “Rice accounts for only 20% of sake-making — water is the remaining 80%,” says CEO Tsushima Kitahara, a philosophy that has remained at the heart of the brewery for more than 275 years. Ducasse first encountered Shichiken around 2020. Gérard Margeon, executive sommelier of Ducasse Paris, was inspired by the idea of “bringing together the spirituality of the Mediterranean and that of Yamanashi.” He then worked closely with master brewer Ryoko Kitahara, the 12th-generation tōji, providing detailed flavor direction for the project.
The Layering of Three Techniques: Kijoshu, Sakura Barrel Aging, and Traditional Bottle Fermentation At the core of this sake lies the layering of three distinct production techniques. First is the use of a kijoshu base — a sophisticated brewing method dating back to the Heian period in which finished sake is used instead of water during the final stage of fermentation. The result is deep umami and refined sweetness. Second is sakura barrel aging. Part of the base sake is matured in barrels made from Japanese cherry wood, a technique unique to Shichiken. This imparts aromas reminiscent of white cherry along with a delicate bitterness. Third is secondary fermentation in the bottle, using the same méthode traditionnelle employed in Champagne production. A second fermentation takes place inside the bottle with yeast and sugar, followed by riddling and disgorgement, creating exceptionally fine, persistent bubbles. The sake has an alcohol content of 12% and comes in a 720ml bottle.
Sakura Barrels as a Structural Element Gérard Margeon describes the aroma profile of this sake in three stages. The top notes evoke the pure floral scent of lily of the valley. The mid-palate reveals white peach, melon, and white cherry. Finally, subtle hints of cardamom and pepper emerge on the finish. Where many sake styles can lack the structural backbone often associated with tannins in wine, this sake introduces a subtle tension through the faint bitterness derived from sakura barrel aging. That structure allows it to engage beautifully with rich French sauces and complex dishes, making it particularly suited for fine gastronomy. This dedication to craft has been widely recognized internationally, with accolades at esteemed competitions such as Kura Master and the International Wine Challenge.
A Continuing Story in Bangkok In October 2024, the narrative expanded to Thailand when Blue by Alain Ducasse at ICONSIAM hosted an “Around the World” pairing dinner featuring master brewer Ryoko Kitahara. Born from the meeting of a historic brewery in Hakushu — with roots stretching back to 1750 — and a leading visionary in French gastronomy, this bottle quietly continues to tell its story across the counters of Bangkok’s fine dining scene. (Mr. Bacchus)
This article is intended solely to explore the brewing philosophy and cultural heritage of Yamanashi Meijo (Shichiken) and the SHICHIKEN Selection Alain Ducasse Sparkling Sake, including the 275-year history of the brewery, the collaboration with chef Alain Ducasse and chef sommelier Gérard Margeon, and the triple innovation method combining kijoshu base, sakura barrel aging, and bottle-fermentation, and is not intended to promote or encourage the consumption of alcohol. / บทความนี้จัดทำขึ้นเพื่อนำเสนอข้อมูลเกี่ยวกับปรัชญาการผลิตและมรดกทางวัฒนธรรมของ Yamanashi Meijo (Shichiken) และ SHICHIKEN Selection Alain Ducasse Sparkling Sake รวมถึงประวัติ 275 ปีของโรงสาเก ความร่วมมือกับเชฟ Alain Ducasse และเชฟซอมเมอลิเย Gérard Margeon และวิธีการ Triple Innovation ที่ผสมผสาน Kijoshu, การบ่มในถังซากุระ และการหมักในขวด เท่านั้น มิได้มีเจตนาเพื่อส่งเสริมหรือโฆษณาเครื่องดื่มแอลกอฮอล์ สำหรับผู้มีอายุ 20 ปีขึ้นไป โปรดดื่มอย่างรับผิดชอบ