How Kokubu Shuzo Redefined Industry Standards

It was featured in a magazine.

Imo shochu is traditionally celebrated for its bold character and robust flavor profile. Yet, recent years have witnessed the ascendance of “aromatic shochu,” an exquisite category defined by its vibrant, fruit-forward bouquet.

A paragon of this modern wave is flamingo orange, crafted by the esteemed Kokubu Shuzo. What visionary endeavors propelled its success? The distillery reveals its extraordinary journey.

From Perceived Flaw to Unrivaled Signature: The “Damaged Sweet Potato” Revelation Crafted primarily from sweet potatoes, authentic imo shochu boasts a profound aroma that captivates purists. Conversely, its intensely distinctive scent has occasionally deterred a more modern, cosmopolitan palate.

Defying convention, the advent of “aromatic shochu”—with its exceptionally crisp finish and radiant, fruity essence—has captivated the epicurean world. The catalyst for this sophisticated trend is universally recognized as flamingo orange, an exclusive offering introduced by Kokubu Shuzo in 2018.

Kokubu Shuzo’s rich heritage traces back to the Kajiki Shuzo Cooperative Association, established in 1970 by ten visionary enterprises. By 1986, six of these entities formed the Kokubu Shuzo Cooperative Association, erecting the state-of-the-art distillery that stands today. Following a strategic evolution in April 2015, the prestigious Kokubu Shuzo Co., Ltd. was born.

The bouquet that unfurls upon the first sip evokes luscious notes of lychee and bright citrus—an aromatic profile seemingly impossible for a sweet potato spirit. Remarkably, according to Mamoru Sasayama, President of Kokubu Shuzo, this very fragrance was historically dismissed within the industry as an off-note, colloquially termed “damaged sweet potato odor.”

“True to its name, this aroma emerges when the raw sweet potatoes undergo cellular distress, traditionally stigmatized as an indicator of inferior shochu. However, by refining our maturation and storage protocols, we pioneered a technique to elevate this alluring scent while impeccably preserving the premium quality of our sweet potatoes.”

In 2013, the distillery unveiled Yasuda, an avant-garde imo shochu that heralded the aromatic movement. While initially met with skepticism by industry traditionalists, the response from discerning connoisseurs was overwhelmingly enthusiastic.

“We received accolades such as, ‘I have never experienced a shochu quite like this.’ That pivotal moment truly served as the genesis of flamingo orange.”

A Serendipitous Masterpiece Born of Three Bold Endeavors Three crucial elements orchestrated the triumph of flamingo orange. The first was the daring foray into vacuum distillation.

“Our Master Brewer had long envisioned exploring vacuum distillation. He hypothesized that combining it with an intensely rich, sweet potato koji-based mash could unlock an unprecedented aromatic profile. His guiding philosophy is to transcend conventional boundaries and embrace relentless innovation.”

Master Brewer Nobuhisa Yasuda meticulously orchestrates the distillation process. Diverging from the standard use of rice koji, Kokubu Shuzo utilizes a specialized sweet potato koji across its premium portfolio, including flamingo orange. This exceptionally viscous mash introduces a delicate complexity, albeit alongside the meticulous challenge of preventing scorching during distillation.

Traditionally, imo shochu relies on atmospheric distillation to capture the raw ingredient’s robust essence. Conversely, vacuum distillation—which reduces pressure to distill at lower temperatures—yields an impeccably pure and smooth spirit. Yet, it was historically deemed ill-suited for conveying the true, earthen character of the sweet potato.

“Our initial 2016 prototype resulted in a highly approachable yet unexceptional spirit. The reception from purveyors was similarly muted. Candidly, at that juncture, the conceptualization of a masterpiece like flamingo orange had not yet materialized.”

The paradigm shift arrived via the second crucial element: a revolutionary yeast strain.

“While dining at a fine establishment in Tokyo, I was introduced to a competitor’s shochu that boasted an intense banana bouquet, derived from wine yeast. I was profoundly astounded that such an aromatic profile could be coaxed from an imo shochu.”

Recognizing the transformative power of yeast, Mr. Sasayama seized a new source of inspiration, selecting Kagoshima Aroma Yeast No. 1—a state-of-the-art shochu yeast engineered by the Kagoshima Prefectural Institute of Industrial Technology. The pièce de résistance was the choice of raw material: the Satsumamasari sweet potato.

“During that period, our entire distillery was transitioning its primary sweet potato varietal from Koganesengan to Satsumamasari. The intensely fruity bouquet inherent to this variety proved absolutely instrumental.”

As fermentation commenced, an exceptionally opulent fruit aroma permeated the very mash.

“Fruit-forward notes are exquisitely amplified by low-temperature vacuum distillation. Encountering such a profoundly fragrant mash, my intuition assured me we were crafting an extraordinary shochu. Although we initially targeted a banana-esque profile, it blossomed into a radiant, lychee-like bouquet. It was a remarkably serendipitous revelation.”

The Highball Renaissance: Elevating the Cocktail Experience Launched as an exclusive offering in 2018, flamingo orange swiftly commanded the epicurean spotlight, establishing itself as a coveted masterpiece that sells out upon release every single year.

“I attribute much of this triumph to the flourishing shochu-highball culture. The pristine purity achieved through vacuum distillation, coupled with its luscious fruity bouquet, creates a flawless synergy with sparkling water.”

The evocative name and sophisticated bottle design were conceived by Isegohonten, an elite liquor purveyor in Tokyo. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant orange hue symbolic of its aroma and the exotic ‘Orange Flamingo’ hibiscus, the elegant label is adorned with delicate botanical and avian motifs.

Across the industry, aromatic shochu has cemented itself as a definitive luxury trend, unequivocally signaling a paradigm shift in the market.

“Not long ago, the prevailing consensus dictated that shochu be savored solely with hot water or over artisanal ice. Today, forward-thinking distillers are meticulously crafting their spirits specifically for the modern highball experience.”

Continuing its legacy of innovation, Kokubu Shuzo has curated an exclusive portfolio utilizing diverse methodologies, including coolmint green, infused with a refreshing herbal bouquet, and sunny cream, offering an opulent banana essence. The distillery is also perfecting a shochu crafted from Hamakomachi—a varietal celebrated for its elegant notes of black tea and rose petals—culminating in its highly anticipated debut in 2025 as Yasuda Hamakomachi.

“The prestige of Kokubu Shuzo today is a testament to our Master Brewer’s leadership, our relentless pursuit of perfection through trial and error, and our unwavering commitment to innovation. We pledge to honor this ethos, continuing to craft exceptional spirits that delight our discerning clientele.”

This fearless dedication to challenging convention is precisely the catalyst propelling shochu to new, luxurious heights, unlocking limitless possibilities for the future of this noble spirit.