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As the global whisky boom settles down, the era of “it sells just because it’s Japanese whisky” is coming to an end. What kind of direction is now expected in the whisky industry? We asked Mr. Takahiko Inagaki, President and CEO of Wakatsuru Shuzō’s Saburomaru Distillery, for his views.
A 20-Year Whisky Boom Like No Other
Driven by growing demand in emerging markets, a global whisky boom started in the late 2000s. Japanese whisky then received high praise at international competitions one after another, quickly boosting its international presence.
In response, whisky consumption in Japan also began to grow rapidly. This was strongly influenced by Suntory’s promotion of highball demand, as well as the NHK drama series “Massan,” based on Masataka Taketsuru, the founder of Nikka Whisky. These factors greatly heightened public interest in whisky.
As demand surged worldwide, the balance of supply and demand for Japanese whisky collapsed. Products with age statements in particular disappeared from store shelves and began trading at premium prices. A serious shortage of base whisky developed, leading to restricted shipments.
Along with this surge in demand, the boom also led consumers to develop more diverse tastes. To meet these new preferences, single-malt craft whisky began to flourish after 2010. The number of craft distilleries in Japan has grown more than tenfold over the past decade, now topping 140, and export values have likewise increased more than tenfold in that same period.
The Future of Japanese Whisky: “Refining Distinct Character and Supporting Each Other in the Industry”
On the other hand, export values of Japanese whisky, which peaked at 56 billion yen in 2022, have declined for two consecutive years, dropping to 43.6 billion yen in 2024. Although it still leads among alcoholic beverage exports, a clear shift can be seen. President and CEO Takahiko Inagaki shared his thoughts on the current situation
“Since there’s a time gap between making whisky and releasing it as a product, we can’t be entirely sure how things will develop. One thing is clear, though: the era when a whisky sold just because it was Japanese is over,” says Mr. Inagaki.
It’s no longer enough to be “Japanese whisky” to sell; nowadays, success depends on conveying each distillery’s unique character. In fact, even people in Japan find it difficult to keep track of all the different Japanese whiskies available now.
“I believe that, going forward, distilleries need to cultivate a distinct identity—like the ones in Scotland—and clearly share the taste of their products. Sometimes we introduce Japanese distilleries at overseas seminars in our role as bottlers, but most people don’t even know the distillery names,” Mr. Inagaki explains.
Moreover, it’s not just in Japan that craft whisky distilleries are flourishing—Germany, France, China, Australia, and other countries are seeing the same trend. This means that competition with distilleries worldwide is only going to intensify.
“Scotch whisky exports amount to around one trillion yen, so even with the so-called Japanese whisky boom, our exports are just one-twentieth of that. We still have plenty of potential, so we need to continue promoting it strategically,” Mr. Inagaki says.
Traditionally, Japanese whisky was made primarily for domestic consumption, with little thought given to overseas sales. Over the last 15 years, however, Japanese whisky has received high acclaim at international competitions and is now regarded as one of the world’s five major whiskies. Japanese whisky also needs to establish a strong brand identity abroad.
“I’m concerned that if Japan doesn’t move beyond its traditional approach and develop a whisky industry structure like Scotland’s—where everyone supports each other—things might revert to how they were before,” Mr. Inagaki notes.
Three Distilleries That Have Caught Mr. Inagaki’s Eye
We asked Mr. Inagaki which Japanese whisky distilleries he is currently paying close attention to.
First is the Osuzuyama Distillery operated by Kuroki Honten in Miyazaki Prefecture.
“Mr. Kuroki at Osuzuyama is the same age as I am. His unique approach was, ‘I tried to create my ideal spirit and ended up making whisky.’ They grow their own barley on a company farm and do the malting by hand—almost like working with koji. It’s fascinating how they’ve drawn parallels between koji and malt, going beyond the standard framework of whisky. Their new-make spirit is completely different in character, and it really inspires me,” Mr. Inagaki says.
Second is the Hida Takayama Distillery under Funasaka Shuzōten in Gifu Prefecture.
“Speaking from personal interest, I’d like to mention the Hida Takayama Distillery, which has installed a cast-metal pot still called ZEMON. While Saburomaru makes peated whisky, Hida Takayama focuses on non-peated. Plus, it’s distilled at an altitude of 1,000 meters, meaning the boiling point is lower. It should have a totally different character, and I’m excited to see how it turns out,” Mr. Inagaki comments.
Third is Komasa Jōzō’s Kanosuke Distillery in Kagoshima Prefecture.
“Finally, there’s Kanosuke Distillery, which Diageo decided to invest in. It’s historic that a large foreign company has recognized the value of a small Japanese distillery. I’m very curious about the impact this will have and how it might change Japan’s whisky industry,” says Mr. Inagaki.
From Japan’s First Bottlers Business to Barrel Repair: Accelerating Unique Initiatives
Amid these trends, Saburomaru Distillery is also speeding up its new projects.
A prime example is “T&T TOYAMA,” launched in 2021 together with Mr. Koumei Shimono of “Malt Yama.” This venture purchases base whisky made by Japanese distilleries, matures it in special barrels they source themselves, and handles the bottling—all as the world’s first full-fledged Japanese whisky bottlers business.
In addition, T&T TOYAMA is creating manga (comics) about various Japanese distilleries to share the appeal of Japanese whisky. The first and second issues were drawn by artist Himiko, who worked on the comic adaptation of “SINoALICE.” They offer not only Japanese versions but also English versions. It’s a very “Japanese” way of promoting this culture through the popular medium of manga.
Having originally worked in the IT sector, Mr. Inagaki is also proactive in introducing IT solutions. One example is the “Barrel Cloud” system for managing casks of whisky base spirit.
“With whisky barrels, you don’t just use them once and throw them away. You empty out the previous spirit and fill in the next batch, so their history is very important. In Scotland, some places still use paper records. Many use Excel, but a single digit error can cause big trouble. With Barrel Cloud, you simply scan the QR code printed on each barrel, and you can reliably access all the information,” Mr. Inagaki explains.
Meanwhile, to address the severe shortage of barrels brought on by the craft whisky boom, they launched “Re:COOPERAGE” at the end of 2024. This specialized business handles the repair and remaking of barrels. “Coopers are rare across Japan and are like the ‘guardians’ of whisky,” says Mr. Inagaki. Barrels are the “vessels of the spirit,” and this initiative supports the whisky business by ensuring not a single drop of base spirit is wasted.
A new blending room is also under construction. Until now, Mr. Inagaki and other blenders at Saburomaru Distillery worked in a corner of the analysis room, but soon they will have a dedicated space. This blending room is connected—through traditional “kumiko” latticework—to a workshop room where visitors can experience blending for themselves.
Rooted in the Community, Recognized Worldwide
“Saburomaru Distillery’s whisky can only be made in Toyama,” says Mr. Inagaki. The water used in Wakatsuru’s sake-making—and for whisky production—is drawn from deep underground, containing just the right amount of minerals and remaining cool and pure year-round.
“ZEMON,” the cast-metal pot still, was crafted using Takaoka copperware techniques from Takaoka City. The “Sanshiro” casks, made from mizunara oak grown in Toyama Prefecture, also use traditional woodworking from Inami. The new blending room incorporates kumiko lattice designs as well.
“Our mission at Saburomaru Distillery is ‘Standing in the world, grounded in the local community.’ We want to stay deeply rooted here while showing our presence on the global stage,” says Mr. Inagaki.
For more detailed information on the history of Saburomaru Distillery (covered in the first part) and the developments of Japanese whisky (covered here in the second part), you can refer to Mr. Inagaki’s book, Introduction to Japanese Whisky. We highly recommend it for anyone interested in whisky.
How will this young leader, firmly based in Toyama, continue to expand globally from here? We look forward to following the progress of Saburomaru Distillery in the future.
