Tradition and Innovation in Kagoshima Shochu—The Present and Future
We shine the spotlight on Kagoshima’s shochu.
First, take a look at this graph summarizing shochu shipment volumes within the prefecture.
In fiscal year 2006, shipments exceeded 150,000 kiloliters, but the trend has been declining year by year.
Despite the drop in demand, there are breweries in the prefecture that continue to preserve traditional methods through handcrafting. At the same time, there are movements that seek to bring new energy to the industry. We explored the present and future of Kagoshima shochu, where tradition and innovation intersect.
In 2024, UNESCO registered “Japanese Traditional Sake Brewing” as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Each region’s unique brewing techniques, cultivated according to local climate and geography, were highly valued.
Kagoshima’s shochu is part of this recognition, and those involved have welcomed the news with delight.
Kagoshima Prefecture Sake Brewers Association, Executive Director Kan Tanaka
“It makes me happy that shochu—something so familiar and truly a treasure to Kagoshima—has been recognized worldwide.”
One distillery that maintains a traditional manufacturing process is located in Ichikikushikino City.
Founded in 1894, Shiraishi Shuzō focuses on handmade craftsmanship. Here, workers are making kōji (malted rice).
Steamed rice is mixed by hand with kōji mold.
President Takashi Shiraishi, Shiraishi Shuzō
“The yeast from our own brewery also comes into play here, creating a unique flavor. Doing it by hand produces a softer, more homemade taste compared to industrial methods.”
Next, finely chopped sweet potatoes are added to this newly made kōji and allowed to ferment slowly.
This thick, soupy mixture forms the base of the shochu.
During the step called distillation, the liquid is heated until it evaporates; the vapor is then cooled, condensing back into liquid form.
This transparent liquid is what we know as imo (sweet potato) shochu.
Announcer Manami Mikawa
“You can really sense the sweet potato aroma. It’s sweet, mellow, and absolutely delicious.”
The history of imo shochu is said to date back around 300 years. Currently, there are over 100 shochu distilleries in Kagoshima.
In 2013, a product was launched that could be called revolutionary in this long-established industry: “Yasuda,” from Kokubu Shuzō in Kirishima City.
Announcer Mikawa
“As soon as you walk in, you’re greeted by the aroma of sweet potatoes!”
President Mamoru Sasayama, Kokubu Shuzō
“This is the moromi (mash) for Yasuda.”
Yasuda’s production process has a major distinguishing feature, and it all began with a certain mishap.
President Sasayama
“There was a communication error with the farmers, and we ended up with damaged sweet potatoes. We used them to make shochu, but it initially seemed like a failure—burnt-like off-flavors and bitterness. However, after about six months, we started to notice a fruity aroma amidst those off-flavors and bitterness.”
In other words, they use “aged sweet potatoes,” a practice previously considered a drawback in the industry.
This aging process gives Yasuda its distinctive bouquet.
Next, we head to the distillation area.
President Sasayama
“This is our toji (chief brewer), Mr. Yasuda.”
Announcer Mikawa
“Is this the same Mr. Yasuda who makes Yasuda shochu?”
Chief Brewer Norihisa Yasuda, Kokubu Shuzō
“Yes, that’s me.”
Chief Brewer Norihisa Yasuda poured his expertise into this shochu as his crowning achievement, paying special attention even to the step where steam is cooled.
Mr. Yasuda
“When we blow in cold air, the air expands rapidly. Introducing cold air helps lower the temperature.”
Announcer Mikawa
“How do you decide the right timing to blow in that cold air?”
Mr. Yasuda
“Although we have it set automatically, I can’t divulge the specific details. The device itself is a trade secret—and this is the first time we’ve shown it publicly.”
Once the finished shochu is aged for a year, Yasuda is ready.
Announcer Mikawa
“Once it hits your palate, the aroma blossoms and gently fades. It’s almost like a refreshing lychee fragrance. Shochu typically has a strong ‘sweet potato’ image, so this is really impactful.”
Shochu is often labeled as “smelling like sweet potatoes” or “just an old man’s drink.”
Yasuda transformed these notions in a big way.
One woman, inspired by Yasuda, went on to develop an even bolder product.
Saki Tominaga, Representative of LINK SPIRITS
“I’m Tominaga.”
In 2016, Ms. Tominaga served as “Miss Satsuma Shochu,” promoting Kagoshima shochu.
Collaborating with Wakashio Shuzō in Shibushi City, she created a product with a striking visual appeal.
Chief Brewer Makoto Takayoshi, Wakashio Shuzō
“It’s basically the pigment from purple sweet potatoes. At first, I had my doubts about adding color…”
Ms. Tominaga
“We aimed for a pink color that would really delight women.”
By extracting purple sweet potato pigments, the liquid turns pink, giving it the appearance of perfume. Called “NANAIRO,” it follows the exact same brewing steps as shochu, but because pigment is added, it’s classified as a spirit under Japan’s Liquor Tax Act.
Ms. Tominaga
“People say shochu smells like sweet potatoes, but that’s not always true—it can have a lychee-like aroma, like Yasuda. I wondered why more people don’t know that. We needed something new to spark interest.”
A shochu that’s both shochu and not shochu—this is NANAIRO. We try it with soda.
Announcer Mikawa
“It has a bit of a wine-like fruitiness, or a floral fragrance that just pops. It seems versatile for pairing with different dishes.”
Tradition and innovation come together in Kagoshima shochu. So, what do these producers see in its future?
President Takashi Shiraishi, Shiraishi Shuzō
“It might be considered a very classical craft. But if we discover what makes it uniquely appealing, something surprising can be born out of it.”
Representative Saki Tominaga, LINK SPIRITS
“Shochu still has so much range and potential. I hope it spreads not only throughout Kagoshima but also to younger generations and internationally.”
President Mamoru Sasayama, Kokubu Shuzō
“By continuing to take on challenges in shochu-making, a whole new world of shochu opens up. I think it’ll make the shochu scene even more exciting.”
