Juyondai was featured in dancyu magazine
Series: The New World of Sake Opened by “Juyondai” – The Work and Influence of the 15th Generation, Tatsugoro Takagi
Mr. Tatsugoro Takagi, the master brewer of the famous sake “Juyondai,” worked at a luxury supermarket in Shinjuku, Tokyo until just before he returned home after graduating from university. He says, “Those two years were so intense—I learned and absorbed everything I could.” This is the continuation of the story of young Mr. Takagi and the couple, Mr. and Mrs. Fujimoto, owners of the restaurant “GORI” in Shinjuku, who supported him during that time.
He Was Determined Not to Reveal He Was the Son of a Sake Brewer Until He Made Sake He Could Be Proud Of
Mr. Takagi began visiting the restaurant “GORI,” which was close to his workplace, and thanks to the kindness of the owner, Mr. Noboru Fujimoto, he was able to taste different sake and even talk about his struggles at work. However, he never told them he was the son of a sake brewer. “When I first met them, I was embarrassed because the sake from my family’s brewery wasn’t on the same level as the famous brands at GORI. I didn’t want anyone to know I was the son of such a brewery, so I kept quiet,” Mr. Takagi confided. Although he has a gentle personality and never shows open aggression, he takes great pride in his family and hates to lose more than most people. It must have been humiliating for him to have others know the quality of his family’s sake was low. However, as he grew closer to Mr. Fujimoto and his gratitude deepened, Mr. Takagi’s feelings began to change. “If I told them I was the son of a sake brewer, GORI would probably put my family’s sake on their shelves right away. But I absolutely didn’t want to be given special treatment or have them carry our sake out of pity. I decided that when I could make a sake that was truly the best among those on GORI’s shelves, then I would proudly say who I was. Until then, staying silent was my way of repaying their kindness. That’s the resolve I made.” Becoming a brewer he could be proud to introduce became his secret goal.
Mr. Noboru Fujimoto, Owner of “GORI” Mr. Noboru Fujimoto, the owner, has a gentle demeanor and a warm, welcoming smile. Many longtime customers come to his restaurant, including business leaders and people with high social status.
Mr. Takagi’s self-study of sake went beyond his time at GORI. He worked at “Queen’s Chef,” a luxury supermarket under Isetan (open from 1985 to 2003), which was surrounded by some of Tokyo’s busiest entertainment districts. He started an unusual service for a supermarket—delivering sake by cart to famous local izakayas. Because of this, the owners grew fond of him, and during the hours before opening, they would let him taste leftover sake, gradually helping him develop his palate. During his busy schedule, he would often visit “Suzuden,” a specialty sake shop near Yotsuya Station, three subway stops away. This shop was actually what inspired Mr. Fujimoto to start serving sake at GORI. “I didn’t have money to buy the sake, so I would just look at the bottles and their labels, but it was still a blissful time that made my heart race,” said Mr. Takagi.
Mr. Takagi gave a speech at the 20th anniversary party of GORI in 2003, when he was 34 years old. True to his strong sense of loyalty, he also provided “Juyondai” and gave speeches at their 30th and 40th anniversary parties.
As he kept visiting, he realized that the selection at his supermarket, the Isetan department store, and the specialty sake shop Suzuden was all different. What customers wanted wasn’t just about their personal taste—whether the sake was for everyday drinking or as a gift, the content, size, price, and design would all change. The type of shop also varied depending on the customer base and purpose. He kept thinking seriously about what sake and sake shops should really offer while gazing at the bottles. Mr. Takagi came to a conclusion: “My goal is not to make sake for supermarkets or department stores, but for specialty shops like Suzuden.” He set his future goal as making sake that true sake lovers, who would go out of their way to buy from Suzuden, would truly love. On his days off, he paid his own way to attend wine school to learn the basics and also actively participated in wine tastings. Later, Mr. Takagi would release the “Juyondai” Junmai Ginjo series, with each sake made from a different type of sake rice—a rare idea at the time, inspired by what he learned about respecting grape varieties in wine.
When the “two years of passionate learning and growth” had passed, Mr. Takagi received an unexpected call from his father in Yamagata, asking him to return because the brewery’s master brewer was retiring. “I had planned to work at Isetan for five years, but it had only been two. Honestly, I didn’t want to leave because every day was so fulfilling and valuable to me. But inheriting the family brewery was my lifelong job and my duty. I made up my mind to let go of my current life and take over the family business.” When he announced he was quitting, his coworkers, seniors, liquor wholesalers, Western liquor makers, izakaya owners and staff, and other business contacts all threw grand farewell parties for him every day. The daily send-offs became the talk of the town, with new groups gathering each night to celebrate. No matter where he went or who he was with, it was clear how much Mr. Takagi was loved by everyone.
The food is prepared by Reiko Fujimoto, the owner’s wife, who grew up as the daughter of a ryotei (traditional restaurant) in Katsuura, Chiba. The menu features many original dishes using fresh seafood, and every item is generous in size.
Mr. Takagi went to GORI to say goodbye on his very last day, just before returning to Yamagata. He told them, “Actually, I am the son of a sake brewer. I have to suddenly take over the family business, so I’ll be returning home tomorrow. I will never forget the kindness you’ve shown me. After one year, I promise to come back with sake I can be proud of—please wait for me.” At first, he had planned to stay five years before returning and only reveal his identity as the successor when he was truly satisfied with his sake, but since he had to leave suddenly, he wanted to at least express his determination. Just as he promised, a year later in 1994, Mr. Takagi returned to the restaurant with a bottle of sake he had made himself, without even a label. When Mr. Fujimoto tasted it, he said, “It was incredibly delicious. I was sure this sake would become famous.” “We were surprised to find out Aki-chan (Mr. Takagi) was a sake brewer’s son, but even more amazed that he actually brought sake back exactly a year later. Both of us were so moved,” said Reiko. The couple, deeply touched by their dutiful “son’s” return, talked with Mr. Takagi late into the night.
Five Labels
On the wall, there are five framed “Juyondai” labels, including “Ryugetsu,” “Souniji,” and “Ryuu no Otoshigo.” All were gifts from Mr. Takagi. The sake Mr. Takagi brought would later be sold as “Juyondai Naka-tori Junmai” and became a huge hit, even being carried by the specialty sake shop Suzuden. At GORI, it received an unprecedented reaction, with people saying, “This is amazing! I’ve never tasted sake like this!” Before long, “Juyondai” became the top-requested brand at GORI, and the restaurant gained a reputation as a hidden spot where people could enjoy rare and famous sake. Mr. Takagi was able to give the best possible thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Fujimoto.
