The Juyondai Story] How Takahiro Nagayama, Owner of Yamaguchi’s “Taka” Brewery, Was Shocked by Juyondai at Age 21 and His Life Was Changed  (Part 10)

Juyondai was featured in dancyu magazine
August 22, 2025

Series: The New World of Sake Pioneered by Juyondai – The Work and Influence of 15th-Generation Tatsugoro Takagi

“Taka” is a popular sake known for its comforting flavor that pairs well with food. The mid-1970s, when its owner and head brewer Takahiro Nagayama was born, is called the “Golden Generation” because it produced an impressive lineup of brewers, including the makers of Aramasa, Jikon, Shichihonyari, Hoken, and Hakurakusei. For the brewers of this generation, what kind of figure is Akitsuna Takagi, the 15th-generation head of Takagi Shuzo (who assumed the name Tatsugoro in 2023) and brewer of “Juyondai,” a man considered a pioneer among owner-brewers? We will share the story of Mr. Nagayama, the fifth-generation owner of Nagayama Honke Shuzojo, over two parts.

“The arrival of Juyondai marked the beginning of the ‘After T’ era!”

Today, “Taka” is well-known among sake fans for its pleasant taste, featuring the gentle umami of rice and a clear finish, and as the sake made by the friendly, larger-than-life brewer known as “Gori-san.” But 23 years ago, it was completely unknown. I, the author, first learned of “Taka” at the end of 2002 while researching candidates for the “Hidden Local Gems” category of a special sake feature in the March 2003 issue of dancyu magazine. In preparation for a tasting event, we asked major specialty sake retailers across the country to recommend promising local sakes. Atsuhito Yamada, the owner of Sakasho Yamada in Hiroshima Prefecture, recommended a sake I had never heard of called “Taka” from the neighboring Yamaguchi Prefecture.

I asked him again, “It fits the ‘hidden sake’ theme perfectly, but I’d prefer a sake from Hiroshima if possible.” However, his reply was more passionate than usual: “It’s the second-year brew from the 27-year-old second son of the brewery, who is serving as the head brewer. It’s my top recommendation, so I really want you to try it.” After consulting with the editorial team, we were won over by his enthusiasm and decided to include it as one of the candidates.

At the blind tasting event, “Tokubetsu Junmai Taka” received comments praising its potential, such as “Full of youthful energy!,” “A bit unrefined, but shows great promise for the future,” and “A future star.” It became the most popular choice in the “Hidden Local Gems” category.

I first met Takahiro Nagayama, the brewer of “Taka,” about six months after the tasting. An old