When you strike up a conversation with Vincent – Vincent Charlot – you know from the light that flares up in his eyes that you’re approaching other shores, other horizons.
Located in Mardeuil, near Epernay – in the Grands Crus area, among the best lands of Champagne – his estate is a mosaic of 39 different small plots, with extremely diverse soils and exposures.
Eager to bring out the personality of each plot, he vinifies them separately. This can sometimes lead to the release of up to 27 different vintages, with quantities ranging from a single barrel (~300 bottles) to 5000 bottles per wine.
You guessed it, we are the opposite of the standardized Cuvées produced in millions of copies. It’s another philosophy, another perspective on the world, a story apart. Vincent is resolutely positioned elsewhere. In another world.
Aware of the richness of this natural environment of which he is the shepherd, he works that multitude of small plots according to the principles of biodynamics. Only 2% of the Champagne vineyard are farmed biodynamically.
Like Alain Moueix in Château Fonroque (Saint-Emilion Grand Cru), he makes his own compost and preparations, cultivates most of the plants he uses.
In this regard, we open here a parenthesis. We’re often asked about the differences between sustainable, organic, biodynamic and natural wines. Here is what we can say.
WHAT MEANS SUSTAINABLE?
Sustainable agriculture attempts to minimize environmental impacts while ensuring economic viability, a safe, healthy workplace through the use of environmentally and economically sound production practices. Everything and its opposite. In other words, a meaningless definition.
WHAT MEANS ORGANIC?
An organic wine is made from grapes grown in accordance with principles of organic farming which excludes the use of pesticides, fungicides, herbicides (weedkiller), artificial chemical fertilizer and phytosanitary product[1].
But there are no specifications for winemaking. SO² (or “sulphur dioxide”, which is a preservative antioxidant and antibacterial), acidification, the addition of yeasts or synthetic enzymes and others are therefore allowed.
WHAT MEANS BIODYNAMIC?
The concept behind biodynamics is that everything in the universe is interconnected and gives off a resonance, a vibration. The interconnectivity of everything even includes celestial bodies like the moon implies taking into consideration all the actors in this natural conversation: the soil, the plant, the people, the planets, and the environment, from the nearest to the furthest. Everything counts. Essentially, biodynamics is a holistic view of agriculture.
In a sense, the intuition of biodynamics joins the intuition of the Chinese Taoist cosmogonic thought which advances a unitary and organicist conception of the created universe, where everything connects and stands.
And meet the postulate of Buddhism, for which the universe is not a distinct creation of a creator God but the Body of the Buddha himself. Therefore, it has to be absolutely listened, respected. And protected.
This sensitivity is increasingly shared by an ever-growing community, all over the world, that refuses “to simplify the complex and to deny its responsibility in a chain of exchanges that nourishes everyone’s life”. (Observe the living, Alain Moueix, Château Fonroque, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru).
WHAT MEANS NATUREL?
A natural wine comes from a vineyard worked exclusively organically and biodynamically – no synthetic chemicals, hand-harvested vines, natural vinification (no sulfites, no yeast (indigenous yeast), no acidification). The difference lies in the non-use of sulfites.
[1] Note that many winemakers fully practice organic viticulture and yet do not seek certification for financial, bureaucratic, personal, ethical or any other reasons.
WHAT MEANS VEGAN?
Vegan wines are made without the use of animal products often used in winemaking (viniculture) such as egg white, used to agglomerate and then remove particles from the wine. So, be aware that a vegan wine may not be organic or biodynamic.
Once these milestones are set, let’s return to Vincent’s work. We said, at the beginning, he worked his soils, his vines, according to the recommendations of Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925), father of biodynamics.
For more than 15 years, he has done an exceptional job of restoring the soil, fauna and flora. His wines are the very expression of this vital energy that many winemakers, journalists and researchers come to admire. And question.
And that many of our customers, in search of rare and high-quality Champagne, delighted to discover them, appreciate more and more to taste.
Written by Dr. François-Xavier ROLAND-GOSSELIN
Master of History – University of Rennes II
PhD in linguistics and comparative literature – University of Angers – France
Wine Consultant @ BACCHUS GLOBAL