In the village of Molesme, where Champagne meets Burgundy…
In the village of Molesme, amongst the rolling foothills near the border of the Aube and the Cote d’Or, where Champagne meets Burgundy, lie the vineyards of an exceptional Domaine, Domaine Bruno Dangin.
As an oenologist, before founding his domain, Bruno spent a little over 30 years in the family estate in Champagne, Champagne Paul Dangin, which depended on the abbey of Mores, founded by Saint Bernard de Clairvaux in the 12th century.
Then an idea came up: start from scratch on a small Domaine. This idea took him a few kilometres to Burgundy, where he found a fragment of terroir capable of giving birth to an organic effervescence of a quality comparable to what he was already producing in Champagne.
He had good reason to believe so. Geographically, the terroir is a direct extension of Champagne’s southernmost appellation Côte des Bars. And historically, the area also produced champagne until France’s first AOC law came into force in 1919.
Indeed, this vineyard, before the law of May 6, 1919 which delimits the AOC, was part of the Champagne vineyard. This new law, which takes into account the administrative limitations of the departments, has therefore excluded the Châtillonnais vineyard from the AOC Champagne. But it does not take into account the geological and climate limits that make this vineyard the continuity of the Champagne vineyard of the Côte des Bars.
So, up until 1919, the producers here actually were Champagne producers. Since that date, from one day to the next, the wine produced on that terroir has become a “Crémant de Bourgogne” instead of Champagne. This is an essential point to keep in mind.
Bruno, and his son Matthieu, quickly proved that with their know-how of Champagne winemakers, a biodynamic approach and a very good terroir, it is possible to produce Crémants de Bourgogne at the height of excellent Champagne.
Conscientious vineyard work has always been the family’s priority. They use all their know-how on their Burgundy lands: same way of working, same vinification requirements as in the neighboring department.
The Domaine, now led by Bruno’s son, Matthieu Dangin, is today certified organic and biodynamic. In the cellar, work is done with long ageing on the lees and dosage is always kept to an absolute minimum. A minute amount of sulphur is used, but Matthieu is increasingly experimenting with Cuvées with no added sulphur.
And as you can guess it, we naturally find their signature as Champagne winegrowers in these bottles signed “Domaine Bruno Dangin”. The style of the wines is tight, acidic and dry, yet with a certain creaminess suitable for a classic Crémant. Extremely consistent Crémant of an impressively high quality.
With 100% Pinot Noir, in a cold climate on limestone soil which yields wines of great finesse, and unparalleled acidity. Furthermore, the limestone soil which Burgundy if famous for imparts incredible minerality. Their Crémant shows weight and body in the glass with a pronounced texture unlike typical sparkling wine. This is simply delicious. So, dig in and celebrate! Or maybe you just need to treat yourself.
Despite not bearing the name and price tag that comes with being a Champagne, this is a must for your ever-lighter ever-brighter dinner or brunch table!
(Dr.FX)